Showing posts with label evan sutton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label evan sutton. Show all posts

Friday, May 6, 2011

Pina Colada and Ancient History

Ostensibly, this post is about the quart of (delicious) Pina Colada ice cream that I just made. But the Pina Colada and I have a lot of history, so I'm also using it as an excuse for that.

Captain Morgan released Parrot Bay Rum late in my junior year of high school. And we loved the shit. It was delicious, it was easy to drink, but it was also made by Captain Morgan so it wasn't sissy stuff. This was, of course, before there were 16 fruit flavors of every alcohol, at least stateside. It was pretty exotic stuff. We'd drink it just about any way you can, straight or mixed, whatever.

So after high school, at my parents urging, I took a year off. They hooked me up with the Center for Interim Programs, thinking I'd go to some state with a good university system, work for Habitat or some other service group, get residency, and go to school. On my first visit with the guy who ran the place, he said, "where do you want to go?" and waved at the world map behind him. And the only answer was Australia.

But Australia's a story for another time. This story is about Pina Colada. The reason I bring it up is that my 19th birthday was a few days before I left for Oz. I was living in a shithole apartment, aptly named The Cesspool, with 4 friends. (random fact, it was the first place of 4 where I lived with Alex Malloy, and I still have lived with Alex longer than anyone else to whom I am not related by blood).

The Cesspool was a total crash pad, and earned it's moniker the hard way. We were among the very few people from our high school who were a) still living near our home town and b) had a place of our own. So everyone who was either still at LHS or living at home ended up on our floor at some point or another.

For my birthday that year, we got several (2? 3? 4?) handles of Parrot Bay, a ton of Pina Colada mix, and ice. And we got trashed. Somewhere in the evening, my buddy Matt Hicks decided he'd call into the local classic rock station (WZLX, baby!). What ensued was somewhere in the neighborhood of completely ludicrous. But you can judge for yourself, as I have set the recording together with a bunch of pictures from that night, The Cesspool generally, and just plain old high school.



A few things about this recording. I've been carrying it around on a cassette tape for 13+ years, so the condition is not great. I digitized it by playing the tape next to the computer mic, making it even worse. But you can hear that I once had something bordering on a Boston accent. You can also hear that I'm a pretty cocky little bastard. I was very proud of what I was doing. And you can't hear it, but there was some hefty editing to our conversation. But whatever. The main point is, I was totally sloshed on Pina Coladas.

Those were pretty good Pina Coladas that night, especially considering the low grade. Maybe the quantity or the company influenced it. Probably both. The best Pina Colada I've ever had was in Playa del Carmen, in 2004. Yes, this is probably somewhat influenced by the setting, but we found this little joint where they clearly made their own mix. And it was delicious. Just a little chunky, totally fresh, just the right rum content. Mmmm. Delicious.

So as I was thinking about cocktail/ice cream combinations to make, naturally the Pina Colada came to mind. And I got to thinking about a recipe. Most of the recipes I saw online called for only coconut milk, which didn't seem quite right to me.

Back when I was trying to convert from server to bartender, I was working at Gordon Biersch. My boss was a big lug. Not a bad guy, per se, but kind of a goofus. He was quizzing me on recipes one day, and asked, "What if someone ordered a Pina Colada?"
"We don't have a blender."
"Sure, but what if they just really wanted a Pina Colada?"
"We don't have mix."
"Yeah, but it's some hot girl and she just wants something that tastes like a Pina Colada." (he generally operated under the stereotype restaurant GM mode of "anything for a hot girl," which included jobs).
"Um, I'd do Malibu, Pineapple, a splash of cream and shake the hell out of it."
"Cream?" He said it as thought it was the dumbest, grossest thing he had ever heard. I nodded and said, "Yeah, cuz otherwise it's just a Malibu-Pineapple."
"Gross," he said, and walked away.

I never challenged him further, although I knew I was right. And over the years I've certainly learned that the best Pina Colada will have a little cream. Even if you're using the richest coconut milk, a little cream adds a weight and smoothness that you just can't get otherwise. And it's fucking delicious. So anyway, here's my Pina Colada ice cream recipe (I hope you haven't really read this whole random thought train just to get here, but if you have, well done).
  • 1 cup coconut milk (full fat. I discovered at the grocery store that there's a "Light" or "Low Fat" coconut milk. I refuse to acknowledge such a thing as legitimate)
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup vanilla sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 cup pineapple chunks and juice (see below)
  • 1/3 or 1/2 cup Captain Morgan Spiced Rum (depending on how boozey you want it)
  • Handful of shaved coconut
  • 1-2 previously used vanilla bean pods
This recipe varies pretty broadly from the standard base. Obviously coconut milk replaces regular milk. I cut the sugar to 1/2 cup from the normal 3/4 to account for the sweetness in the coconut, pineapple and rum. I cut the eggs because the coconut milk is naturally thick, so the thickening agent wasn't as necessary.

The vanilla sugar and used bean pods are key. They'll add a little extra vanilla component but not overwhelm. The vanilla sugar is not store-bought fakey stuff. Per the recommendations of many, I've taken to putting the (cleaned and dried) used bean pods into my sugar container after use. It gives the sugar a really nice vanilla essence. And the used pods still infuse some flavor when heated in liquid, but not a deep flavor.

Anyway, here's how you do.

Put the coconut milk, 1/2 cup of cream, sugar, vanilla pods and coconut shavings into a sauce pan, heat on medium heat. While it's heating up, get 1 cup of pineapple chunks. Fill the cup with juice, so the liquid fills in around the chunks. Drop it all in a blender and blend the living shit out of it until it's super pureed. Add to the stuff on the stove.

Heat it until it's all warm and steamy, stirring with a whisk, then turn down to low. Heat a few more minutes, continuing to stir from time to time. DO NOT BOIL!

Take it off the heat, let it sit there for about an hour.

After an hour, heat it back up to very warm. Add the rum, whisking aggressively (the rum can cause the cream to curdle if you just dump it in, so be careful here).

While it's heating, take the remaining 1 1/2 cups of cream, put it on an ice bath.

Fish out the vanilla pods, rinse, dry, return to the sugar container. I'm too lazy to properly temper eggs, so I just very slowly add them while whisking aggressively. However you get them in there (my method or true tempering), add the eggs. Shift to a flat rubber spatula, stir slowly, scraping the bottom. Continue until it thickens to where it coats the spatula without running.

Remove from heat, whisk into chilled cream. Whisk the mixture until it's a) thoroughly mixed and b) pretty well chilled. Cover, stick it in the fridge, leave it overnight. I'm usually too impatient to wait all night, but in this case I think it's worth it. All of the flavors are ones that really absorb slowly (rum, coconut, pineapple, vanilla) and giving it the time overnight to get together and make sweet flavor love is probably worth it.

When it's gotten all conjugal and shit, bust out your ice cream maker. With my booze + cream ice creams, I always leave it in a little extra time to really get as firm as possible, so probably 40 minutes instead of 30.

Take it out of the machine, put in a container. Again, the machine doesn't freeze everything evenly, so use your spatula to mix it and get the texture consistent (this should also help keep even flavor throughout). Stick it in the freezer, let it ripen for 4+ hours.

I've discovered that the freezer ripening is a really key step in ice cream. Straight out of the machine it's really delicious and fresh, but the flavors haven't had time to settle in. Once it's been in the freezer and hardened up, the harder flavors mellow, the softer flavors find their place, and the texture of the ice cream really gets nice. So while I may eat a spoonful or two straight out of the machine, I find it's worth waiting a while, and I'm both an ice cream addict and horribly impatient.

And that's my Pina Colada story. In the coming weeks I'll be doing Mojito (probably try ice cream and sorbet), Old Fashioned (I'm gonna candy my own orange and lemon peel for this), and Mud Pie with Kahlua and Baileys. But what other cocktail concoctions should I get into? Help me create some wicked ice cream flavors!

Oh, and I think I'm gonna make a Pina Colada Rootbeer Float later. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Photo from Flickr user SingChan, shared under Creative Commons license

Monday, January 31, 2011

Princess and the Boat, or, Two Days Later

Prologue:

The boat was probably twenty feet from shore, and another twenty down the beach, by then. Seamus was somewhere between tears and screaming. I had a sinking feeling, the kind you get when a plan starts taking on water. Like in the movies when one guy gets trapped behind a door in the flooding engine room, and his friend has to watch through the tiny glass window while the room fills up. We were frozen in place, standing on the cold rocks and sparse sand. And our little boat was bobbing away, Cthulhu's tentacled head and small plastic body drifting into the sound.

"I'll get it."

I honestly don't remember if there was any discussion. But Princess was in her skivvies, and wading into the water. I could see her shoulders shake with the cold as she half slid, half swam out to the boat. I could see her face contorting with the cold as she swam back, towing our boat behind her.

May I introduce Peter? (from my journal, 2/2/2001):

There was nothing left on TV. (Note: In those days we had a pretty basic cable package. I'm pretty sure it was late, but one way or another it was just the two of us sitting on the couch.)
"Let's write a story," Peter said.
"Alright."
"What's it gonna be about?"
I looked, and the first thing I saw was a six-pack of fishtail. "It's about a fish."
"Okay, what kind of fish?"
"A flying fish."
"Anything special about him?"
"Yeah, um, he's got a huge tail and he flies really fast."
"Cool. So, uh, what's he do?"
"Waddaya mean?"
"Like, why do we want to write a story about this guy?"
"Um, he's a spy. In the south seas."
"What year?"
"1942."
"Who's he a spy for?"
"The Australians."
"Why?"
"They want the Nazis to win."
"Okay, why?"
"Cause they want to be free of their western ties."
"Alright, what's his name?"
"Tommy Tonqua."
And that's how it got started. We pumped each other for info. It probably lasted an hour. We ended with a page and a half of a story.

Preludes:

"That looks so good. I want a hamburger." He reached for the phone.
"Uh, Pete, what're you doing?"
"I'm hungry. I want a hamburger." He started dialing off the screen.
"Um, okay, but who are you calling?"
"I'm gonna order that thing."
"Why?"
"Because I want a hamburger."
"Um, Pete, you realize that thing won't get here for like eight weeks, right?"
"Whatever, I want a hamburger. I'm hungry."
"Dude, I'll drive down to Kid Valley if you wanna get a fucking burger. Don't order that stupid..."
"Hi, yeah, I'd like to place an order for the grill thing?"
"Dude, seriously, why are you ordering that thing? I'll drive you to get a burger!"
(Waving me off) "Yeah, how long will that take to be delivered? Okay. Uh huh. Peter Stansfield. 6814 30th Ave NW..."
In hindsight, this episode says a lot. One day I came home and found eight identical boxes from Ubid.com on our stoop. When Pete got home, he was fired up. "Yes, my printers are here."
"Dude, why did you order eight printers?"
"Great deal man. Great deal. Seriously. You want one? I figured I'd have one, give you one, maybe give one to Scotty, and then sell the others."
I took one. I don't actually know what happened to the rest of them.

Nicknames

When you have a guy like Peter bartending in a glorified video arcade, you're in for trouble. That's where I met him, at Gameworks, 1998. It was probably my third week when he hacked the computer system and gave everyone new nicknames. I don't remember most of them. The only one that stuck was Seamus. That's still what we call him. "Sean" sounds funny coming off my tongue. He gave the managers names that were, well, unflattering. And no one could figure out how he did it, or really that it was him. Well, everyone knew it was him, but no one could ever prove it, which is all that really matters.

Pete talked. He talked almost all the time, and if he wasn't talking, he was dead silent. That should have been a sign, too.

But my family isn't prone to mental health issues, at least not anyone close to me. And at 19, 20, even 21, I didn't know the signs. One day, Peter was in a good mood and telling me about the story he was working on about a peasant boy who accidentally releases a wasp demon one night while taking shelter in a cave during a storm. Or he was ordering a George Foreman grill because he was hungry and wanted a hamburger. Or he was holed up in the basement for a week straight, speaking to nobody, coming and going when no one was looking. But mostly manic. Almost always manic, as I remember. And he was brilliant. And this isn't true. It's just my memory, which is now ten years old, tonight. And those are the newest. Some of these memories are from 13 years ago, and I can't really be held liable. It might not all be the exact truth, but it's all the truth for me.

The Main Event

We were all at the house already. It was early evening, but it was long since dark. Seattle in January. It gets dark by 4:00 PM that time of year. Anyway, there we were. Lucas, Malloy, Seamus, Disco, Sonyer, Princess, Laura, John, I'm sure a few others. I remember people were going in and out, even though it was cold and damp outside. Smoking on the stoop. Talking quietly. At least I think we were all there and it was night. But maybe it was the afternoon and it was just me and Lucas.

One way or another, the phone rang. And Lucas answered. And he went outside, and sounded agitated, and when he came back in his face was white and he screamed, "FUCK" and spiked the phone on the love seat. It bounced, high, and clattered down on the floor.
"Dude, what the fuck?"
He was red, now. Lucas is pretty hard to read, most of the time. Red isn't good. "Peter killed himself."
"What?"
"Peter killed himself. Last night. At a hotel."
"What?"
"He filled a bag with nitrous and put it over his head. The maid found him this morning."
If everyone wasn't already at our house, they got there soon enough. It was two days since we heard about Jason. I'm pretty sure everyone was there already because of that. But I could be wrong. It might have just been me and Lucas. But everyone else was there soon enough, in that case. Peter had moved out of our basement the day before. He got a pimp job at Microsoft, rented a sweet apartment in a high rise downtown at 9th and Pike. And then he rented a hotel room. He ate an expensive meal in a restaurant overlooking downtown. He drank a bottle of wine. And he pulled a bag over his head, filled it with nitrous oxide from a whipped cream bottle filled by those little silver cannisters, and laid back on the bed.

Nocturnes

It was only the second time I'd ever been to a christian service of any kind, and the first time I'd been to a funeral. I didn't fly home for Jason's service, but this one was just over the hill. It was in that funeral home at the top of Dexter, where it hits Westlake and crosses the bridge. It seemed like everyone I knew was there. And somehow, for some reason, I didn't sit next to Sonyer. I wanted to sit with Malloy and Fresh, or something like that. I remember looking across the aisle and down a row to where she was sitting in the middle of the service. "God" this and "Jesus" that, "way and the light" and "he who believeth in me shall live forever." But Peter didn't believe. He was an athiest. And Sonyer was sitting across the aisle, and crying, and looking at me. And I wasn't crying, and I didn't feel anything at all. Just anger that they were talking about God at my friend's service. I thought about the boat in the trunk of the car, and that was the only thing that kept me from walking out. But she was crying, and I knew there would be hell to pay.

"I thought he was gonna do it when he told me he was moving in here," Sierra told us. "He's tried three times before. Pills once. And I think cutting himself or something. But this was the way he talked about. He used to tell me he would give away all his things, and move somewhere quiet, and put a bag over his head. He knew what he was doing. I thought he was going to do it when he moved into the basement, but then he seemed so happy here. I've never seen him happy for so long."
It wasn't clear at first. Not totally. Peter loved nitrous. More than anyone I've ever met. I'm not sure why. All I know is that, for me, it slows the world almost to stopping. Peter's mind was truly brilliant, and always going. Maybe it let him slow down enough, for just that minute. In any case, it could have been a stupid accident. That's what we wanted to believe, when everyone was there in the living room. I remember Princess and Laura were sitting on the couch, the one facing the big windows that looked down into Ravenna. But Sierra knew. She knew. And even though we wanted to think it was a mistake, a stupid way to get high that went horribly wrong, Sierra knew. And we did too. But it was just two days since we got the first call, the one about Jase, and it didn't seem possible. I remember Laura's face. It was kinda twisted. The way they say someone's "twisted with grief." I don't remember feeling anything.

Seamus was twisted up, too. I think the idea came to him the next day. "He told me he wanted a Viking funeral," he said. "We have to give it for him."
Things from those days aren't so clear, anymore. Here's what I remember, clearly. The pictures I have in my head.

Seamus and I, walking through a Home Depot with random lumber. Some 1x4's, and glue, and nails.

Seamus and I, sitting on the floor of the basement. In the southwest corner of the basement, where there was a big, open space and a light hanging from a chain and the cobwebs are considerate enough to stay in the corner. Everyone else had given up, by then. We're not exactly shipwrights. I don't remember what tools I had at that point, but at best a few power tools, a hammer and some screwdrivers. The light cast those ugly, deep shadows everywhere. But I remember Seamus's face. It was even longer than usual, and sunken a little, and his eyes were somewhere between frantic and pleading. And I knew that if we were going to come out of this, we had to finish the boat. I remember the sawdust on the floor, and the glue, and the nails. I remember the look on Seamus's face when we affixed our dowel-mast, and put the action figure body with Cthulhu's head in place beside the mast.

I remember the way the frozen grass sounded at Carkeek. The way it crunched underfoot, and thinking that if I was barefoot it would be stabbing into my feet. It was cold as fuck. Colder than Seattle usually gets. There were maybe ten of us. And I was helping Sean carry our makeshift boat, soaked in gasoline. Cthulhu was tipped over beside the mast. The mast didn't have a sail, as I remember. And the boat was nothing like a Viking ship. More like some child's idea of a rowboat with a mast, much too small, stuck in the middle. But it was our boat. And Seamus was carrying it with the kind of reverence that befits some ancient treasure. I remember the service was bouncing in my head. "Yea, tho I walk in the Valley of the Shadow," and all that. I remember the inside of the funeral home like it was burned into my eyes, white walls, flowers, folding chairs. Coulda been an al-anon meeting. I skipped the casket, I think. I remember flashing to that room, as we walked through the park. I think there was snow on the ground, although that might have been a year later, with his parents, when we went for a memorial. But the main thing I remember is nothing. I felt nothing. I wasn't angry. I wasn't hurting. I was only cold, I just knew that we had to put that boat into the water, we had to light it on fire, we had to send Cthulhu-Pete to his Viking funeral. For Seamus, if for no one else. There was something that told me that, the same thing that knew the only thing I could say to Seamus 5 years later, in much darker times still. But that's another story.

And when we got to the shore, and put the boat to sea, we loaded our Roman Candles, lit the fuses, and waited.

But the little balls of spark blew away down the wind. Or they broke up before they reached the boat, little green and yellow and red sparks overwhelmed by winter and wind and sea. And pretty soon the candles stopped hissing and popping, and we were just standing there, watching our little boat float away dark against the dark water of the Puget Sound.

"What're we going to do? We have to set it on fire," Seamus said. When they say that someone "sounded small" that's the voice I imagine. A desperation that's just not enough to beat the wind, not enough to carry to the waves, not enough for a sea god, or even a nymph, to hear and take pity. He sounded small, and I felt small. I looked at him, and I knew he was right, but I couldn't do anything, didn't feel anything.

The boat was probably twenty feet from shore, and another twenty down the beach, by then. Seamus was somewhere between tears and screaming. I had a sinking feeling, the kind you get when a plan starts taking on water. Like in the movies when one guy gets trapped behind a door in the flooding engine room, and his friend has to watch through the tiny glass window while the room fills up. We were frozen in place, standing on the cold rocks and sparse sand. And our little boat was bobbing away, Cthulhu's tentacled head and small plastic body drifting into the sound.

"I'll get it."

I honestly don't remember if there was much discussion. But Princess was in her skivvies, and wading into the water. I could see her shoulders shake with the cold as she half slid, half swam out to the boat. I could see her face contorting with the cold as she swam back, towing our boat behind her.

How it Ends

She pulled it onto the rocky beach, shivering. Maybe it's just how I want to remember things, but I'm pretty sure I gave her my overcoat. She pulled her clothes on over her wet panties and bra, and she stood shivering. "Well? Are you guys going to light it?" she asked. Diana. That was always what drew me to her, even though our moth and candle routine never lined up right for either of us to see what it would be like. When I was the moth, her flame was covered, and when she was the moth, another girl always had my flame. But that was what drew me, first, her attitude. She never waited for concensus, like the rest of the city. She just acted. She just did. She just said. Acted on what no one else would. Did what no one else thought of. Said what everyone was thinking. Like jumping into February water in the Puget Sound to drag a boat back to shore. Like saying, "Well? Are you guys going to light it?"

We didn't waste any time, then. But the gas had either been waterlogged or evaporated, and it was hard to light. Even if we'd scored a direct hit with every ball, I don't think the Roman Candles would have caught it on fire. But our lighters did, after a while. A kind of weak, low flame, barely standing up to the wind. But we pushed our little boat into the current, and watched the prow rise above the foam, then sink into the waves. We watched until we couldn't see the flames anymore, until the dark and the wind and the sound swallowed even the shadow. And Princess never complained of the cold, huddled under someone's jacket, maybe mine.

But the boat was too far out against the black soon enough. And we began walking back, feet crunching in the snow. And Diana's teeth chattering. We laughed about our little boat on the high seas. About a cruise ship passing it. About it washing ashore in China, or Kamchatka. About someone finding Cthulhu-Peter in this little charred boat, somewhere across the sea. The fire wasn't enough to engulf the boat, no true Viking funeral. But it was enough to melt a little plastic action figure into a puddle. It was enough to burn the Cthulhu head Peter had put on the figure, so I guess it was a kind of Viking funeral. I remember the way Diana's teeth chattered. I remember that Seamus looked present again. Like he had done what he needed to do for himself, for Pete. And I remember feeling nothing.

Epilogue

I started at Gameworks when I was nineteen. Within a month, all my friends were 21, except the girls. Diana was still seventeen, then, and so was Laura. But they were cute girls with fake ID's. After work, everyone went to Von's Martini-Manhattan Memorial. Or to Blowfish (it was still called Blowfish back then). Everyone except me.

Sometime in the fall of the next year, when I was twenty, I got off shift and Pete was getting off, too. He said, "C'mon, let's go to Von's." I didn't say anything, I just went, praying not to get carded. I didn't. And then we went to the 'Fish. And I didn't get carded. And after everyone else had joined us, and we were well toasted, Pete came back from the bathroom. "Hey, you never came out before. Let's see your ID. It must be good. I wouldn't serve you." Everyone laughed.
"I don't have one."
"What?"
"You've been with me all night, dude. I don't have one. No one's carded me."
Pete looked around the bar. He looked back at me and laughed.

When I started writing this, I looked around for pictures of Pete. I only found the one. It's from a party we threw in October, 2000. About 4 months before Peter put a bag over his head. He's sitting on Lucas's bed, dressed as Rasputin.
Most of his costume is off by that point. We were throwing a "Dark Shadows" party for Halloween. He's holding a whipped cream cracker. From the look of his face, it's post-hit. Nitrous slow and laughing. I remember when we found that picture, a few months later. No one else wanted it. But I thought it was appropriate. Peter would have liked it.

Peter didn't go out without humor. Things kept coming to us, for months. First it was the Girl Scout. She showed up to deliver cookies for us. None of us had ordered cookies. "The receipt says it's a gift from Peter Stansfield."

And the magazine. A gay newsletter, addressed to Seamus. Peter went out with humor, left little traces for us to wonder over, or laugh at. I wonder if it was his way of saying sorry? Or maybe just his idea of a good joke to play, on his way out the door. Gay magazines and cookies from beyond the grave.

Pete, I wish I could remember the story you told me, beyond the wasp demon. We were walking to catch the 64 over on 35th. I don't remember where we were going, but it was late summer, or maybe early spring. It was warm, and you were walking fast, talking faster, and wearing your khaki shorts and black hiking boots. I wish I had that story, or something else you'd written. I wish I had the story we wrote together, about an Australian Nazi fish spy, but it's not in my journals anywhere. I wish I had more to go on than a memory of you and Scott fighting to see who could leave the biggest tip at the 'Fish. I wish I had been a little older when you went, so I could have understood better. You were probably the brightest man I ever knew. And, other than your choice to leave, one of the best friends. I didn't understand then. I understand a little more, now.

I've been listening to Pandora, something you would have loved, while I'm writing this. And of all the random things, it decided to play something from those days. Moby came on. I can't help but think this has some small synergy. So this one is for you, Pete. I hope your boat made it to warm water, somewhere. I hope Cthulhu-Peter survived the fire, lived to baffle some fisherman, on some distant shore.



Hey, Hey, Hey, Woman, it's alright.
Hey, Hey, Hey, Woman, it's alright.

In my dreams I'm dying all the time
When I wake its kaleidoscopic mind
I never meant to hurt you
I never meant to lie
So this is goodbye
This is goodbye

Hey, Hey, Hey, Woman, it's alright.
Hey, Hey, Hey, Woman, it's alright.

Tell the truth you never wanted me

Tell me...

In my dreams I'm jealous all the time
Then I wake I'm going out of my mind
Going out of my mind

Hey, Hey, Hey, Woman, it's alright